Friday, April 30, 2010

Essential Nutrition to heal Arthritis in our dogs:

Dog Arthritis
This is not to suggest that our dogs have Arthritis, that's not so but I did have a beautiful German Shepherd and he, Ben developed Arthritis badly.  I also had bad Arthritis to needing a wheelchair stage so I tested the nutritional plan for me on Ben and when it cured his problems I used it on me and I have had a remarkable recovery.  It is included just in case it helps someone some time.

Dog Arthritis in my best old mate helped me find the cure for Man’s Arthritis and mine in particular.

Specialists all told me that Medical science does not know what causes Arthritis and it was the inventor inside me that stuck to failure after failure to find the cause and remove it and it was all found in public domain information and an old Veterinarian’s book on Natural Pet Care that gave me the cause when she started off by saying
Arthritis: Arthritis is caused by an imbalance in the correct bone
building minerals –calcium, magnesium, copper, and boron (particularly the last of these) – as well as an unbalanced diet. This may not necessarily mean that the animal has not received the minerals but, that they cannot be properly absorbed if boron, copper and vitamins A & D are not present.

It was this breakthrough and the understanding that animal testing is often done before human testing so it was relevant to us and it was this information that changed the direction of where I was looking. I had been looking for a magic bullet that would cure the disease but that it was a dietary problem and by correcting this it gave me the answers of where to go from here and it brought an immediate success path. I first tested my ideas on my dear Ben a German Shepherd dog that was wracked by Arthritis and cried when he had to be moved.

Within a month Ben was running and chasing rabbits again and he chased, caught and ate a rabbit the night before he died after calling us to say goodbye. He was 14 years of age and had a quality life from 10 when he was healed to 14. The experiment with Ben was helpful as dogs have no placebo effect and they get the reactions quicker than we do.

After witnessing Ben’s miracle I was keen to get stuck into it myself and again saw the pain go quickly before the joints were being rebuilt with strong new cells totally naturally.

“Today I am filled with compassion when I see a faithful old mate for someone wracked with pain or having to be put down because of a bad heart, liver or pain. It is even more upsetting to see so many people limping with Arthritic Pain, having to sit down to get their breath and people in obvious trouble because I WAS THERE AND DO UNDERSTAND WHAT IT’S LIKE.
WORST OF ALL MOST ARE TOTALLY PREVENTABLE AND EASILY REVERSIBLE WITH PROPER NUTRITION.

When I was in trouble I learnt so much by reading the books of others who had found the cause of Arthritis, Cancer, Coronary Heart Disease, Alzheimer’s, MS, Diabetes and other degenerative diseases 2,500 years ago (Hippocrates) and seems to be lost to today’s sickness industry but known to the old natural healers and some scientific researchers who have difficulty being heard because it isn’t patentable nor are there any drugs just the foods that go on the end of our forks.


To add value to your healing potential when you Download your “Arthritis Healed Without Drugs” if you haven’t registered please feel free to do so and you will also get FREE “Sensational Meals That Heal” an indispensable recipe and nutritional information book as soon as it is finished also FREE a third Book Mentally Gearing for Healing. That’s three for the price of one as an introductory Gift so don’t wait and miss it.

In addition to make every opportunity to beat your disease we are opening a Blog to gradually release sensational recipes as little by little so you are healing from day one. This Blog is also FREE to make this opening offer fantastic value.

Why would I want to give away all this Valuable Information ABSOLUTELY FREE? It is a deliberate desire to add value to the Books on Healed Without Drugs, go into more details of certain important aspects than I could in the book because of room, giving readers a place to discuss questions Why and How we do things, so giving them a reason to keep on doing them to make sure they reach their goal of Total Wellness and beat their disease. It also gives us all the opportunity to be part of a small community of people who master their disease and to reach back to help others coming through and encourage them step by step and have the resource of being able to chat to others who have been there and know exactly where you are at. Unless you’ve actually been there you really don’t know where someone is at and what they are feeling, fears grief and emotions.


As part of a hobby we breed the most beautiful companion dogs called Cavoodles. They are a first Cross between two very carefully selected dogs with no line breeding in their genetics (Line breeding is the pedigree terminology of inbreeding where they put a say a father back across his daughter to emphasise certain show traits). The Sire and Dam are specially selected for temperament and health. These pups are especially bred, trained and fed to have the best healthy start in life a puppy can get and the feeding program all started from my research to get better myself and old Ben who is in Doggy Heaven right now. What we learnt in our experiments with Ben to cure his arthritis and bring him back to good health proved the basis for both him and me and the following is part of the instructions we give our folk who buy our pups. The feedback has been that this plan not only keeps them ion perfect health but when given to their other older dogs who have all manner of diseases they invariably (after getting them used to it) get better or have significant improvements.


Feeding Instructions For Your New Puppy and Older Dog
The following is the results of much research and experiment for my own benefit when I was crippled with Osteo Arthritis (OA) and told to get a wheel chair because I could no longer support myself on crutches as Arthritis in the shoulders was so severe. In fact Nuclear Bone scans showed advanced, active and degenerative OA in every major joint and the full length of the spine including the neck. To put it mildly I was in a mess and used my beautiful old mate Ben (a German Shepherd who also had bad Arthritis and used to cry when he got up to move) as a guinea pig as dogs don’t respond to placebos and they seem to respond quicker than us humans.

The results of the trials were that Ben lived a happy and full life following me and my car round the farm and where I went he also went. He died one morning in his 14th year after chasing, catching and eating a rabbit the night before. I on the other hand was able to avoid the wheel chair and today I am free of pain fully active walk upright with no signs of OA 95% of the time and only then after I have broken my golden rules do I experience any pain.

The first piece of the puzzle was provided by Don Burke of Burkes Back Yard program when his Vet Rob Zammit gave us a formula for feeding all pet dogs other than hard working dogs who need more protein.
This was his formula.
1/3rd Cooked or raw vegetables (even mix variety don’t load up on any one especially potatoes), 1/3 Cooked Brown Rice (young pups put through the vitamiser or mulie) and 1/3 dry biscuits either Puppy or Adult, soaked and mixed up with a gravy made from a strong tasting offal like liver etc. just to give it a meaty flavour. Most of their health problems is too much animal protein. Unless they are working dogs they simply don’t need it, 5% is the maximum safe amount to avoid health problems like heart, arthritis and cancer. This has been known and confirmed by world leading scientists as effective for humans also and following this I have avoided a 6 month death sentence and later a wheelchair from advanced arthritis as above.

I find it best to prepare the Vegies but very little onion cabbage or cauliflower and strong tasting vegies like swede etc and lightly cook.
This I mix and blend together with the gravy in a blender with some apple cider vinegar and a small ¼ to ½ teaspoon of honey added when serving. (This raises their calcium levels for 24 hrs. according to Dr. D.C.Jarvis (Folk Medicine Great Pan Book) and increases their potassium helping them absorb many necessary minerals including calcium, boron, copper and magnesium [that are also added] according to Pat Coleby) Coleby an old time Vet claims this together with some essential mineral supplements and exercise will keep our pets free of cancer and arthritis helping them to live a long and healthy life and it certainly did with Ben, even helping him beat arthritis and has done similarly with me.

Instead of buying high priced dog biscuits we use Coleby recommended “Box 1” 4x2 dog biscuits (also the choice of greyhound owners) as they are the made of the most natural ingredients of all manufactured biscuits and the dogs love them. We usually leave some out for them to come back to later also I break them up and mix with the other mixture when serving to add texture to the mix.

A house dog will think it great to get their vegies straight from your plate but this is a bad habit and can lead to difficult eaters but a special treat now and then is fine. Remember the pecking order the dog is lowest in the household and when they think it otherwise there can be problems.

The only other thing we give them other than the supplement minerals I will talk about later is a good raw bone probably 3-4 times a week (one they can crunch their teeth into and with plenty of gristle fibres to clean their teeth. Turkey or chicken necks and carcases are great as particularly the Turkey necks have all those angles on the bones but all bones must be raw (Never Cooked as they splinter and never frozen [except necks] as that also causes bones to splinter causing awful problems for the animal. The carcases also have a great deal of gristle that is great for teeth cleaning and joint protection and the raw bones are a great source of calcium particularly when Apple Cider Vinegar is present. We also give them a scrambled egg about twice a week for their coat and put a small ½ teaspoon of apple cider vinegar in it and mix before serving adding a ½ teaspoon of raw honey (not supermarket honey that’s been heat treated).
You will find that they usually love a Sardine or two and this is good for a variety.

In the wild when a wild dog kills a grazing animal it firstly chews through the skin and fur (fibre and roughage) good for the bowel and eats the contents of the stomach (vegetation matter). The first meats they eat are the offal organs and muscle meats are the last choice and lowest value to them.

To feed them too much meat provides the average pet too much protein but hard working dogs need more protein as well as the above because of their exercise requirements.

Mineral supplements can be bought from the health food store and are expensive or bought in bulk from your local farmers produce store for a small fraction of the cost and whilst they are more economical buying that way you have to buy larger quantities so waste a lot on just one or two dogs so to help we will supply several months supply for $20 plus postage. But here is my recipe if you want to make up your own.

I make up a bottle full of 1 part dolomite, 1 part garlic powder, 2 parts seaweed and ¼ part sulphur, ¼ part garlic powder shake well every time I use it to keep it from settling and going hard. If we can get about a level teaspoon full into our pet over a week in small regular doses that’s about fine for a small pup increasing to about a teaspoon full a day for full grown Cavys, but something like a German Shepherd could easily do 2 teaspoons full a day. Then when mixing up the feed once a day add a few drops of Cod Liver Oil good quality in light proof glass (I wrap it in alfoil) to add vitamins A & D, ½ teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar ( make sure it still has mother in it otherwise if it has been pasteurised it is not as good) this increases the acidity of the food replicating how most dogs get their vegetables in the wild as when they kill a grazing animal they first eat the stomach which has grasses and vegetable mater together with the digestive juices (high acid) to help them digest the vegetable matter. In fact I read that the mussel meat is the last they eat and the least value to them. Their first natural preference is the organ meat like livers, kidneys etc. as it is highest in vital minerals and iron. Another aspect we overlook and why pets don’t need as much meat is because they don’t have to work at it as much as their wild counterparts who have to catch the meal first then eat through the fur giving them all the fibre needed to keep their bowls working. In the wild they also eat a lot of berries and acid plant stuff that helps their health and avoid diseases. In addition to Cider vinegar I like to add a small dose of raw non heat treated honey as that in combination with cider vinegar increases the calcium levels in the blood which is good for the immune and bones. It was also one of the things that helped me overcome arthritis and Ostio porosis by increasing the potassium levels.

Further to this I would strongly recommend just 1 book to buy and persevere til you find it, as it may take a bit if searching. The book is called “Natural Pet Care” by Pat Coleby ISBN 0 7344 0488 3 published by Lothian Books If you can’t find it I found a small book shop that stocks it “The Book Hog” 194 Union Street Merewether Junction Ph. 4961 6370 and I think I paid $20 odd some time ago so it may be dearer now if you have difficulty finding it but it is the only book one really must have to do the best by a pet using natural means.

I encourage you to get it because it is a source of information that has helped me overcome OA as well. I have reproduced a report of hers from a country magazine and hope that will encourage you to get the book and benefit from all the 80 odd years of Pat’s experience and the wisdom it contains.

Our sole objective is to give you the information to help you enjoy your pet for a long healthy and fruitful lifetime and if you choose to use the information it could help your health like it has mine also.

Be careful with the onion family and be very sparing with it
Also Garlic is great for preventing flees and biting insects as is sulpha but these are only to be used in very small doses and be especially careful with young pups. Any food with sugar makes animals more attractive to biting insects than those without (this includes the diseases they carry) and we have proved this with our cows.
ESPECIALLY BE CAREFUL WITH THE AMOUNT OF ANIMAL PROTEIN NO MORE THAN 5% FOR PETS AND 10% FOR WORKING DOGS AND DEFINITELY NO COWS MILK (following this and eating only fresh raw vegetables has helped me avoid a wheel chair and avoid a certain death in 1993 when I was given 6 months on 6/6/93 so I am sold on the health benefits of this nutrition)

If you just must give your pup or dog milk the vet will have a powdered form that has no lactose and is suitable for pups or else goats milk is ok according to Pat Coleby.

Worming:
Note. We have used Popantel Allwormer Tabs for pups. They were wormed at 2, 4 and 8 weeks, you won’t need to do it again til week 12 then every month til 6 months, then every three months for adult dogs and follow the instructions of your vet for young puppies. By rights ours shouldn’t have worms or fleas because of the mineral balance we keep them with but as they are going away to other people we play safe so you don’t have a worry.

Heart Worms: This is a shockingly painful thing for dogs to get and you should ask your vet for the heart wormer they recommend. This is a separate treatment, normal worming does not cover and they make a chewable tab the dogs love and will bully for so it is easy to administer. (A free sample is in your puppy pack)

Fleas:
There is two options: Frontline is effective and again this is obtained from the Vet or Produce store and a good practice could be to do it on the 1st of every month next day after a wash.
Note: If you would prefer a natural option as we prefer to follow Pat Coleby’s advice you should be able to dispense with this expense as the copper, garlic and sulphur should keep normal worms and fleas at bay (not heart worms), but it is good insurance in tick country and researched from old drovers who had to fix their animals on the trail from what they have on hand. We use the recommended treatments as well because we are selling dogs and want to prevent anyone getting a bag of fleas or worms and there are numbers of dogs in close proximity however living on a property our nearest neighbours dog is almost a Kilometre away and they rarely come in contact with other outside animals. This is a matter for you to consider and come to your own conclusion about and I’m not telling you what you have to do but recommending you do your own homework. My only recommendation is that you keep them under control and never let them get established.

Disinfectants: There are many good brands we personally use Aldi Hospital strength and do it daily mixed 250 ml to 1Ltr water in a spray bottle and every week I do what I read they do in hospitals when there are tough bugs to control. That is to use White Vinegar and water in a squirter bottle and spray everything

Eucalyptus: We use Double D and I put a few drops into a small bottle, mix some Metho well and then some liquid detergent to emulsify it. Mix some of this in a spray bottle fill with water and it leaves a nice smell around the kennels and back steps.

There are plenty of ready mixed formulas available from the supermarket but this is what we use and this works out effective for us and economical but you can try if you wish and sort out what suits you best.

Taking your new puppy home:
Please remember this may be exciting for you but your new little mate is having a rough time missing mum and even more the other siblings so it will be as lonely as all heck. Some take their little mate into their own bedroom for a night or two with a hot wheat bag wrapped in a towel to replace the body heat from their siblings. Up to date they all group together in a huddle and keep each other warm and hear each others heart beat so an old loud Chinese ticking clock is a good idea. Maybe a deep box with sides and a cut out to climb in and out with a pillow or rug for padding and warmth.

With these puppies they are bread for companion dogs and the future relationship and bonding will depend on how much time and love you give it in these new days. Bonding is as important as it is with a new baby and in fact we found that Julia’s mothering skills were invaluable in bonding and potty training our pups.

I have read all sorts of training methods some with aids but what we found best was that she would simply watch them and before they should be about ready for a pee she would put the lead on them and take them out on the grass and say wee, wee and they soon learnt that that was associated with emptying the bladder and when we take them for a walk they now stop for wee, wees as soon as we hit the grass. Likewise after they have had a feed take them out and say poo, poo and they usually do poos for us again on the grass and because they eat natural tucka their poos disintegrate quickly with the worms quickly devouring them and we have no smelly messes to clean up and no or few land mines on the lawn to clean up and if one does take more than a few days to dissolve into the grass just turn a high pressure hose in it and it soon washes into the ground again for fertilizer.

By doing this for a while (and ours are inside dogs) they soon got the message that when the urge came they go to the door and sometimes bark if we (usually I) don’t realise what they are telling us but Julia seems to understand the different ways they look intently at her (better than me) and as soon as we get their lead they really get excited. We live on a farm with no fences around the home block only electric to keep cattle out and we have foxes quals and other predators hence the reason we always use the lead at night not so necessary in the day. But they do get used to it quite quickly and it is a lot better than making another job to have to clean up or widdle boxes to keep litter in or clean up after them and is another companion or bonding time to enjoy their antics.

What to buy: Here again this is just a few suggestions and many will wish to buy more and many less it is rather an individual thing.
Food: You can chose what best suits you but we have fed them the following. 1 part Advance Rehydratable puppy food, 1 part “Box 1 4X2 biscuits” crushed and our supplement (see under own heading) This goes into the vitamiser and ground to a fine powder and stored as such. When mixing I get out of the Frig a pre cooked vegetable puree also done in the vitamiser together with Apple cider vinegar, cod Liver Oil and chlorophyll butter and a small amount of cheese for flavour. When about to feed them mix equal parts of dry powder and vegetable puree using their cooking water to moisten and thin the mix. They should have to eat out of the bowl and if not hand feed with a small teaspoon for a while. I find that if I talk to them and tell them how lovely they are the tone of voice needed to tell them this is very reassuring and settling to them so they are much more relaxed and take their food better. It’s a lot like children when we are up tight, angry, nervous or had a scrap with someone they read us and act similarly playing up so follow your instincts what you would do if it was a baby and most importantly show it love and you will be rewarded.

Stuff: There is a multitude of stuff you can buy but don’t rush in to too much, grow into what you need over time. Items I feel are essential\ include a sleeping mat that can double as a car seat protector, a toy size harness and lead. A collar is handy for quick short trips outside. Several food bowls particularly if they will be left for a while. A stainless water bowl (and a short piece of copper water pipe to leave in the bowl to leach trace amounts of copper as most foods are lacking in enough copper) one for soft food and one for 4X2 crushed and one for rehydratable puppy biscuits. And that’s about it for essentials.

You may want to also get some shampoo but get special sones for puppies and a quality brand as their new skin is sensitive, also grooming tools.


Finally: The next and most important aspect is to enjoy your new friend he/she can give you years of pleasure and unswerving love if treated right. Give them 100% love and they will give you 200% back that’s their nature.

King Charles was a pioneer of designer dog breeding and his little Spaniels (Cavalier King Charles Spaniels) were purpose bread between a number of breeds to create special companions for the Aristocratic set and only Aristocrats were able to buy one. They were real status symbols and as the breed continues to become known world wide as possibly the best human companion dog in the world and has one of the lowest dumpage rates. In Australia it also has the fourth largest number of litter registrations in the Canine Council in Australia and similarly as popular in the USA.

The Poodle on the other hand is credited as a French dog although they are traced back to early Egyptian times and were originally hunting dogs and of course became excellent Gun Dogs.

Poodles have been popular all through Europe for several hundred years. They also are skilled at most other dog events including herding, agility, obedience and tracking very intelligent dogs.
They are elegant in the show ring, having taken top honors in many shows. The poodle coat is dense and generally does not shed. They have a natural affinity to people and by selective breeding their love and devotion to people has emerged. Each contribute a wealth of benefits to the Cavoodle bread (Cavalier Poodle cross) particularly the hybrid vigour and increases the gene pool of each bread 100% and that is beneficial for the health and stamina of the Cavoodle particularly as breeding within a smaller gene pool can over time particularly with those breeders that practice line breeding causing certain genes to mutate causing some less desirable traits (the same as humans inbreeding for generations) and we hear these breeders proudly declaring that these pups get destroyed. We believe this totally unacceptable and largely preventable by maintaining a larger gene pool by out sourcing different selective sires with proven health records and not allowing any mating within family lines.

Probably the most disastrous thing we can do to our little mates is to go off to work and leave them alone all day. That day after day can break their hearts and if they have to be left for long periods we strongly recommend another mate as two help keep each other company and does not alter our human relationship with them in fact it is better and we have 2 mates not just 1 so it is a win, win result. Ours love the car and love to come “tatars” in the car. Say that word and there is a great flurry to ensure they are not missed. Again ours create no problem for long car trips so long as we have a few more comfort stops for them as well as us and they can be planned to be the same stops. Go into the shop to get something for a minute and come back to a welcome as if you had been away for a month, they become just so devoted and crave affection and are as great with babies and children with not a mean or jealous bone in their bodies but they do reflect the owners treatment of them.

So we have done the best we can do to ensure a great healthy young pup capable of long happy healthy lives the rest now is up to you and it is both of our desires that you enjoy your new friend as much as we enjoy ours as they are undoubtedly great company and have the ability to creep under our guard and right into our hearts, all they ask is love, feed and companionship.

Food preparation:
You can experiment to find what suits you but here is mine for you to start from.

In order to prepare the pups taste buds for alternatives new owners may select I have adapted a combination of Bourkes Backyard Vet Rob Zamit’s recommendation replacing cooked brown rice (as it seems to go through my pups whole) with Pat Coleby’s favourite source of fibre and carbohydrate (Box 1 4X2 biscuits chopped up into smaller pieces).

It is 1 part of Rehydratable Advanced puppy (when 6 months you can switch to the adult version)
1 part Box 1 4X4
Put in the blender and ground fine to a powder
To this add 2 parts of vegetables cooked and blended smooth or better raw if the pup will handle it

Add small amount of minerals plus Cider Vinegar, chlorophyll, a few drops of cod liver oil (2 X weekly) and a few drops of baby pentavite and about a quarter teaspoon of honey.

I make up enough to do a day and only put out smaller amounts in the pups plate with the rest in the frig.
To make sure we get a full nights sleep I like to hand feed them about 6 PM with a small teaspoon until it’s little tummy feels full and then finish up with a special fine beef mince with about 15% fat to finish up just enough to give them up to 20% animal protein as a pup and down to 5% as an adult.

The mineral mix is from Pat Coleby’s list and consists of 1 part each domamite, garlic powder,
3 parts seaweed (it has most of the minerals artificial fertilizers have leached out of our soils) including most important copper, selenium, phosphorus, iodine, cobalt and magnesium)
Plus ½ part of sulpher (Sulpher and garlic make the animal unattractive to biting insects like fleas etc) In case of a flee outbreak or bad tick area they should still be treated with something like frontline but the above is fine for normal low risk areas.
Add ¼ part of sodium ascorbate (Vitamin C) (I believe from reading that this form is better than ascorbic acid and in case of snake bite or other deadly bites it is a great boost. Coleby recommends injectable sodium ascorbate as a snake bite treatment that is good for all snake bites and is what we trust on the farm where brown snakes are prevalent.)
plus the following trace elements (trace elements are exactly that very small traces and too much can be toxic so I use a pinch of these to a tablespoon of the others) Boron and Cobalt

In addition to this a stainless drinking bowl is vital and I have a small 75-100mm length of copper pipe and a teaspoon of Apple cider vinegar in the water to raise the potassium and acidity to leach the copper into the water (making the pipe bright) This is creates a trace amount colloidal copper which helps prevent internal parasites like worms and also cancer and arthritis mainly occurs when the mineral balances are low and particularly copper and a major factor for the occurrence of these diseases in human and animals today. (copper pipe is ideal and if the hardware store won’t cut you a small length every plumber would have that sort of scrap lying around as would many handy men)

These elements can be obtained from a good health food store or if it becomes too hard I usually mix up a larger amount at a time and could supply you 3-4 months supply for about $25 but have enclosed the formula in case you do want to be independent.

Of all the above sea weed or kelp is one that can’t be overdosed on and is taken as a food so is the best way to absorb. The minerals it contains are readily available and I am of the conviction that a sea weed tablet a day is one of the best and cheapest multi vitamin pills I can take. So if you want to be heavy handed and put extra in the dogs meal it’s ok.

I find that sometimes the dogs don’t want to eat the mixt up food but a light gravy made with small amounts of liver or meat will give it the meaty taste they like. At this point our vet was most adamant that he wouldn’t give his daughters chicken because of what it does to their bodies.

Cavoodle Puppy owners Report 5 28th April 2010

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Cavoodle Puppy owners Report week of 28th April 2010

Hi folk,
I am not sure what time I will have between now and Monday as there is loads on for us so here is this weeks report a tad early and I will try and get some photos on over the weekend but they are all doing well.

25th this was the first day we measured a reduction in their weight gains as poor little Honey has been copping a caning with their sharp little needle teeth so she is spending less and less time in the pen with them and one couldn’t blame her one little bit so we gave them a half teaspoon each of farax mixed with puppy formula and they slept for much of the day with full little tummies.

26th they had short periods of hectic playing and barking at each other chewing of ears, squealing and generally getting tired before lapsing back into sleep absolutely fagged out. Rusty was trying to dominate the others but the girls Jamima and Pauline, now Shelley then ganged up on rusty barking and standing off walking on all fours before back legs would slip out from under on the slippery paper and they just collapsed.

27/4/10 I have just been watching Rusty dreaming, laying on his side and it was as if he was running fast whilst Jamima was laying flat out on her back with her side cuddled into Jane, and Shelley was laying on top with her with head over Jamima’s neck. Talk about time wasters. They play hard and sleep hard, when they play Rusty tries to throw his weight about and bites their ears taking on 2 or 3 girls at once or maybe they take him on and they sink their teeth into any appendage that they can. This morning he was biting one’s ears one was sinking teeth into his tail and then into another appendage, That action brought his full attention with pain attached to full concentration on the problem seems the girls have now all found his weak spot and he squeals so loud and shrill one just knows what’s happened without even looking they all are so much fun and what time wasters they are! Interesting at this age they usually sleep in the closest end and when they wake up they need to go so they go down the other end. They have already worked out laying in wet paper isn’t the most pleasant so they keep that end clean. When I feel Honey’s udder full even if she’s not over anxious I throw her in with them and she empties ASAP and out like a flash then today Wed. I put Farax sloppy mix in the outside ant proof moat around their dish and after getting a taste for it last night they were into it and making a fair fist of it too, so it won’t be long before they are eating off a dish and I can leave off hand feeding as it’s time consuming and they will just eat till they are full so why try and oversee them eating when it isn’t necessary.

28/4/10 For a few days Honey has been gradually weaning the pups probably necessitated by the pain of those needle sharp teeth, it is common for pups to go backward for a while during this change over period from Mum feeding them to solid foods we decided to get good scales and track them on a daily exercise as few breeders would recognise the exact day they needed extra feed and to be able to pick it exactly. When they suddenly had a day where 3 had 0 weight change and one had just 10 grams gain we knew this was the day to really get serious and take them into the transition put the protocol into place and implement it last night and presto they responded immediately and today had an average weight gain of 45 grams which is spot on average we wanted. It also gave them a boost in energy so the girls would get what Mum had before she jumped out and then we had by this afternoon reached the point where they were lapping and eating their solids on their own and enjoying it.

This meant they could top up after mum to finish with their tummies full then play hard for a while till they are exhausted and fall asleep and sleep longer, good stuff that puts us back right on track again.

They are getting so cute and cunning, they are responding well to our human handling with no fear as every contact with humans is a pleasant one with cuddles, food and play as we get them looking forward to every time we put our hands in for whatever it is from changing paper and having a little play to picking them out for personal time 1 on 1 playing or food etc. Whilst they are all together they won’t be bonding with us so much, only as humans but when you get them home they will have you on their own so they will bond with you quickly as they don’t have their siblings and later I will share our strategy that makes that change much less stressful for them and only take a very short time to get over it as you become their new mother and a tight bond is established. This is possibly one of the most important aspects of giving puppies a really good smooth and enjoyable transition.

Will take more photos at the weekend and post them then so you can see the growth and there is some when their last photos were taken their weight was on average 5.6 times their birth weight and tonight it is 6.4 times and this is their slowest growth period in the midst of the change over. I think this is all for now will bring you up to date further when I post the photos.

Regards

Brian

Training Your Cavoodle

The following article is a direct download from a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Dog Training Specialist They didn't have one specially for Cavoodles at the time but may have now.

I have recently searched for the same site but couldn't find it so recommend you do a google search for puppy training and what applies to one breed majorly applies to others.

Membership is free So I have left their web address there for you

Training exercise 1

Over the next few days, we are going to send you dozens 
of tips and techniques to help you quickly and easily 
train, maintain and take care of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
These techniques have been thoroughly tested and 
researched by the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Training Institute - so, 
after reading the mini course, we absolutely guarantee 
that you will be well on your way to having a loving, 
well-trained and perfectly obedient Cavalier King Charles Spaniel!
The techniques mentioned in this course will generally 
be applicable for both a puppy as well as an adult 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. In case a particular technique is applicable 
only to a puppy or only to an adult Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, we have 
mentioned that before discussing the technique.
In this course, you will discover tips for
* Housebreaking your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
* Training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel & making it obedient
* Teaching the basic commands to your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
* Taking care of the diet of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
* Stopping your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel from barking and biting
and a lot, lot more!
So, without wasting any more time, let's begin with 
today's topic - which is all about housebreaking your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
If done properly, housebreaking your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel does not 
have to be as much of a hassle as some owners make it 
to be.
Your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a creature of habit. If it is taught 
where you want it to eliminate, and you control its 
food and water intake to regulate when it will 
eliminate, you will have a happy relationship 
relatively free of accidents.
The biggest mistake made by Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners is 
inconsistency. It is important that you first choose 
the method of housebreaking appropriate for you and 
your pet and secondly stick with it. We know of many 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners who are impatient or inconsistent when 
housebreaking their pets. The end result is a pet that 
is never fully housebroken.
So, remember the three P's - persistence, patience and 
praise, and you are guaranteed success.
Here are the 3 methods you can use to housetrain your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel:
i) The Paper Method - The paper method seems to work 
better with a puppy than with an adult Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, 
although it can be used on both.
To begin housetraining your pup with the paper method, 
first you must choose a location where your puppy will 
be staying until housetrained.
Make sure the room is puppy proofed and that 
elimination on the floor in this area will not cause 
permanent damage to your home.
A bathroom or small kitchen is usually a good place for 
this.
Once you have chosen an area, cover the entire floor 
with newspaper.
If you have a young puppy, it will eliminate much more 
often than when it is older. So, just be prepared for 
many messes in the beginning.
In the beginning, it is important to replace the paper 
as soon as possible after the elimination has occurred.
This helps your puppy establish the area as its own, 
and it will help you get a better idea of where it 
favors doing its business.
As your puppy eliminates throughout the day, it may go 
in several different areas of the room.
But, as it gets a little more used to its room, it will 
choose a certain area where it prefers to eliminate.
When its preferred area for elimination is established, 
begin removing the paper from the rest of the room, 
only covering the area it uses.
Make sure you leave its papered area large enough so 
that it does not miss the paper.
If it misses the paper, the area is too small and you 
need to add more paper.
When it uses its papered area, praise it. The more 
your puppy associates a reward with its choice of the 
paper instead of the linoleum, the quicker your puppy 
will be trained.
After it has established that it will use the papered 
area instead of the floor, begin moving the paper 
towards the area (presumably somewhere outside your 
house) where you want it to go when fully trained.
The paper should only be moved a little at a time 
towards this location. If moving the paper confuses 
your puppy, you may only be able to move about one inch 
per day, until the paper reaches its final destination.
Once your puppy understands that it is to eliminate 
only on the paper, and you have been able to move 
towards the area where it will eventually go outside, 
monitoring its habits will be much easier.
Once the paper is completely removed, it will go to 
that area automatically and sniff or turn circles, 
letting you know it has to go out.
Crate Training - Crate training can be used on both a 
puppy and an adult Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and is probably the most 
effective and efficient way to housetrain your pet.
No Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will want to eliminate in a place it 
considers to be its own and therefore, unless left in 
its crate for too long, it will not eliminate in its 
crate.
Once every hour, place your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel on a leash and
walk it in the area where you want it to go potty.
If it has not gone in five minutes, return it to its 
crate for another hour.
After another hour goes by, the dog that did not go 
last time will most likely go this time.
When it does go, be sure and praise it profusely and 
return it to its crate. The excitement in your voice 
when you are praising it will help it better 
understand that THIS is the place you want it to go.
Once that is established, it will do its best to make 
you happy by eliminating in its designated area.
Once you feel it understands where it is to go to 
potty, you may lessen its crate time, and begin opening 
up its area to more than just its crate.
Be sure and open up its area a little at a time so it 
clearly establishes the larger area as "its area", 
increasing the desire to keep its area clean.
Eventually, you will be able to open up your entire 
home, but this is only after a lot of time has been 
spent training and proof that it understands.
Litter Pan Method - This method will have the best 
chance of success with an young puppy but an older 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel may be able to litter train with success as 
well.
Similar to paper training, litter box training begins 
in a confined area such as a bathroom or kitchen.
Although you may be able to use a traditional cat 
litter box for this purpose, pet supply stores do sell 
doggy litter boxes. They are shaped a little different 
and are a bit larger than the traditional kitty box. 
Also available are special litters and papers that 
should eventually be used in the box.
Like paper training, the beginning stages have paper 
lining the entire floor of the room. You continually 
change any soiled paper until the puppy chooses a place 
on the floor it likes to eliminate.
Once the puppy has eliminated in an area about the size 
of a litter pan for approximately two weeks, place a 
litter pan on the floor and paper inside the litter 
pan.
When it goes and does its business inside the litter 
box, make sure to praise it profusely. It has got to 
establish this is the correct behavior before it will 
be comfortable with it.
Once it is used to the litter box with the paper, you 
may begin the change to doggy litter if desired. As 
time goes on, you may add additional litter until 
eventually the paper is gone and only litter remains.
If you choose this method, you must clean the litter 
box every time your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eliminates. It will not
go in a dirty box. Failure to consistently clean the
litter box will result in your puppy reverting back to
the floor.
Follow any of the above 3 methods consistently, and you 
should soon have a fully house-trained Cavalier King Charles Spaniel!
Well, that's all the time that we have for today. We 
will send the next email to you tomorrow. It will talk 
about training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and making it
obedient.
Of course, what was covered in today's email is just a 
small fraction of what you need to know in order to 
fully housetrain your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
There are dozens of other extremely important tips and 
techniques that you need to keep in mind before you can 
start housetraining your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, and there isn't 
sufficient space in a single email to describe them 
all.
Plus, there are numerous mistakes that many new 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners make when they are housetraining their 
pets, and there isn't enough space here to cover all 
these mistakes so that YOU don't accidentally make 
them.
In order to learn about the important housetraining 
tips and techniques that have NOT been described in 
this email, and to learn about the common mistakes made 
by new Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners when they are housetraining 
their pets (so that you can avoid them), check out our 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
There is an entire book devoted to housetraining your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel in our membership site.
Once you have implemented all the techniques mentioned 
in this book, you can put a permanent end to the sheer 
sense of pain and frustration that you feel when you 
suddenly discover that your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has relieved 
itself in exactly those places that you didn't want it 
to.
You will have the peace of mind of knowing that when 
you return home from work, the floor of your house, 
your carpets and your furniture will not be dirty or 
permanently ruined because your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has gone to 
the bathroom in the most inappropriate of places.
Other members of your family will no longer complain to 
you that your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has not been house-trained 
properly.
Plus, you will save dozens of hours of your time every 
week because you will no longer have to waste time 
trying to figure out on your own as to how you can 
potty train your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel... our book will give 
you detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to do 
so!


Training exercise 2

Today, we'll talk about how to train your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and 
make it more obedient.
The key to success in training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is 
understanding the psychology of your pet - i.e. how its 
mind works, and then incorporating that with proven 
training techniques and a few training aids.
Remember, your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is not a human and therefore 
does not think or react as a human would. Also, your 
pet does not verbally communicate with humans and you 
should not think that it does.
It may recognize the word "out" and associate it with 
going outside, but that is only because it is a common 
action that occurs consistently before it goes outside.
If you change the verbal word you use to communicate 
with your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel along the way, your pet will no 
longer understand what you want. It is important that 
whatever word you choose to give a command, you stick 
with that same word each and every time, without the 
least alteration.
Also, before you can even begin training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, 
your must establish that you are the "Master" and your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is the "Follower".
Remember, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has an inherent trait that makes 
it a social animal, needing a dominance subordination 
hierarchy. You must establish that you are the leader 
of its pack before you will be successful with any type 
of training. This is called "social reinforcement".
The following items will help you establish that 
leadership role in the life of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel:
i) Do not compromise with your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. For example, 
if you want it to perform a desired behavior, don't 
just give up and walk away when it does not perform. 
Instead, use some type of reinforcement to show it that 
its behavior was not correct, such as withholding the 
treat or toy.
ii) You should always initiate interaction with your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and terminate the interaction with your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel rather than the other way round.
iii) Avoid tending to your pet's every desire. Rewards 
should only be given for desired behavior, and should 
never be given just like that.
iv) When you are spending time with your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, pet, 
talk and touch it often. This will help establish the 
trust needed to truly set you forth as the leader.
Obedience Training Styles
Just like housebreaking, when you are training your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, the key thing is consistency. You need to 
pick a training style that is suitable for you and your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and stick with it.
The two most popular types of obedience training are 
leash and collar training and reward training.
We won't have the time to describe these techniques
in detail in this email - so we will just give you
a short overview of these techniques.
In the leash and collar type of training, the leash is 
used in the beginning as the tool to teach the correct 
behavior, then once the behavior is learned, the leash 
is only used to correct unwanted behavior.
A mistake often made by the novice owner with this type 
of training is they forget the leash is used only as a 
tool.
Often a novice owner will abuse the leash to nag at 
the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
This defeats the purpose of the leash. The leash must 
be used only to get the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to obey. It is used to 
establish the leadership role between master and pet, 
but to be successful in training, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel must 
understand the command with or without the leash and 
you must be able to utilize any tool at hand to solicit 
the correct behavior from your pet, not just a leash.
Reward training usually incorporates food rewards or a 
reward that is associated with getting food. The 
associated award could be the command "Good". Many 
owners now use a clicker as an associated reward.
A secret to making the reward trained Cavalier King Charles Spaniel reliable 
is working the pet around distractions in its 
environment and teaching proper socialization.
If you only train your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel in the house, it will 
not be used to extra stimuli. The well trained 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, then exposed to unfamiliar people, may not 
respond as desired. When reward training, it is 
important you train both inside and outside your home 
to make sure your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is exposed to as much 
stimuli as possible.
Another important tool in communication between you and 
your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is the tone of your voice when delivering 
a command.
The command "Good" will have a more positive tone. The 
excitement in your voice will be picked up by the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and it will eventually associate it with the 
feelings of acceptance for that response to the 
previous command.
The word "No" will have a more forceful tone, usually 
associated with a negative response, such as a stern 
tug on the leash if leash training. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will 
eventually establish that tone as an indication for an 
undesired response to your command.
As you move on in your training, the tone will be as 
important to the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as the command itself.
Also frequently overlooked by the novice owner is body 
language. Once you get to know your pet better, you 
will understand its meaning behind specific body 
motions.
An owner who really understands his/her Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will 
see even the slightest head movement in certain 
situations and understand exactly what it means. This 
enables the owner to give a command prior to a behavior 
occurring.


Training exercise 3

Before we begin instructions for individual commands, 
it is important that you understand the pitfalls to 
avoid and tips for success when teaching the basic 
commands to your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
* Always use your pet's name when speaking to it. This 
will increase its attention to you when calling it or 
giving it a command.
* When you give a command, enforce it. Do not repeat 
the command over and over again. If it does not respond 
to the command, manipulate its body into the command 
position if appropriate. Never give a command if you do 
not intend to enforce it. You will lose credibility 
with your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel by doing this.
* Always reinforce desired behavior. Reinforcement does 
not always have to be a treat. Your touch and voice can 
be enough reinforcement to help the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel understand 
it did what you desired.
* Never reinforce undesired behavior. No matter how 
they tilt their head or make you feel bad, never 
reinforce the undesired behavior. Remember, your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is also learning how to manipulate you. If it 
does not perform the desired command, it is imperative 
that you ignore it, then try again in a few minutes. 
Eventually, it will respond to your command because of 
its born-in desire to please you.
* Never punish desirable behavior. Many owners do not 
realize that when their Cavalier King Charles Spaniel performs the desired 
action, such as going to the bathroom outside, and then 
the owner immediately walks away, they are punishing 
their Cavalier King Charles Spaniel by ignoring them. Stay with your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel after the desired behavior is performed. Make 
sure it understands that what it did was good and you 
are happy before leaving it.
* A trick for success is keeping your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 
interested. Remember, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will only learn if it 
is having fun. Know when to quit when training. Trying 
to do too much too soon will mentally exhaust the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and it will be much harder to train.
We'll now discuss 2 of the basic commands that you 
should teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. However, because of space 
constraints, we won't have time to discuss all the 
basic commands that you should teach to your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
To learn how to teach the other basic commands to your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (the ones that will not be covered here), you 
can subscribe to our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site 
at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
COME
Teaching your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to come is one of the most 
important commands it will ever learn.
It is also a command that will take a lot of time to 
successfully learn.
Begin by waiting until your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is already 
approaching you, then when two to three feet away,
use your pet's name along with the command "COME"
("SCOUT COME"). Always use the name of your pet
first before you use the command.
When the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel gets to you, praise it. You should 
repeat this exercise as often as you can for several 
months.
As your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel begins to associate "COME" with a good 
thing, you can gradually increase the distance.
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel does not come, then it has not yet made the 
association of the word to the action. Give it time, 
it will eventually understand.
The key to success with this command is for your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to always associate the command "COME" with a 
good thing.
A common mistake made by novice handlers is they use a 
firm tone with the command causing the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to 
associate fear with the command. If a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel fears 
you, its instinct will be to run away instead of coming 
near.
NEVER chase your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel when using the command 
"COME". This is a sure way to teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that 
"COME" is a bad thing.
Once you believe your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel understands the command, 
begin to reinforce it.
Put a lead on your pet's collar and allow the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 
to run around with the lead dragging behind. Gently 
pick up the lead, without the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel noticing and say 
"SCOUT COME". If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel does not come, then 
gently pull the lead forcing it to come. Repeat this 
test often.
Another exercise to test the "COME" command is having a 
family member walk the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, on a leash, away from 
you. Give the command "SCOUT COME" and see if the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel comes. Repeat the command if it does not come 
the first time. If it does not come the second time, 
give a third command, but this time have the family 
member walk the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel towards you until it reaches 
you. Be sure and give the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel a lot of praise when 
it reaches you, even if the command was performed with 
assistance.
OFF
This command is used to tell your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that it 
should not touch an item with its mouth or paws.
It can be taught by containing the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel in a 
controlled environment with only a few items that may 
distract it.
As soon as it reaches for one of the items, use the 
command "SCOUT OFF". Praise it when it leaves
the item alone.
Eventually you can begin to walk it around and use the 
command "OFF" in a larger area.
It will eventually understands that this means to leave 
the item alone when the command is used.
It is an especially nice command to utilize when your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel may be getting into a dangerous situation by 
touching something that could potentially hurt it.
Well, that's all the time that we have for today. We 
will send the next email to you tomorrow. Tomorrow,
we will discuss how to take care of the diet of your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel .
As we mentioned earlier, only a small fraction of all 
the basic commands that you need to teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 
has been mentioned in this email.
There are lots of other important basic commands like 
HEEL, TAKE, DROP, SIT, DOWN, STAY, TOY, OUCH etc. 
that have not been mentioned in this email because of space 
constraints.
In order to learn how to teach these basic commands to 
your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, you can subscribe to our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers 
Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
Our membership site includes an entire book devoted to 
training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and teaching the basic commands 
to it.


Training exercise 4

How you begin feeding your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will determine how 
she expects to be fed for the rest of her life.
It is important to start off right with her feeding.
There are many commercial brands available that will 
fit the specific needs of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel according to 
her age and physical characteristics.
A common misconception among Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners is 
believing that feeding their pets table scraps is good 
practice.
Unfortunately, this is completely false. Table scraps, 
although sometimes hard to resist feeding her, can 
cause problems.
First of all, table scraps do not consist of the 
balanced diet your pet needs which can cause 
gastro-intestinal upset.
Many owners do not realize that feeding their pet table 
scraps can encourage obnoxious behaviors such as 
begging and barking for food.
Have you ever been at someone's home and watched their 
four footed friend beg at the table? Although you may 
think this is cute, remember, that Cavalier King Charles Spaniel begs like 
that every time those people sit down to eat. Yes, 
morning, noon and night, they see their Cavalier King Charles Spaniel either 
wobbling in a begging position or barking to get bites.
If you start your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel off on the right foot when 
eating, your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will be healthier and not a 
nuisance during your dinnertime.
TYPES OF FEEDING
Scheduled feeding and free feeding are two types of 
feeding you may offer your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. Both depend on 
your lifestyle and the personality and physical 
characteristics of your pet.
Scheduled feedings usually take place in the morning 
and evening and consist of measured amounts of food.
Free feeding is exactly as it sounds. You set a bowl 
full of food on the ground and the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eats 
whenever hungry.
Dogs that are on scheduled feedings are sometimes more 
easily trained than those allowed to free feed. This is 
because food can be used as a reward, where if the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is free fed, food may not be an adequate 
reward because the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel can have it anytime she 
likes.
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eats excessively or is overweight, 
free feeding is probably not the best choice for your 
pet. Also, if your pet spends many hours alone during 
the day, free feeding is not a good choice. What goes 
in must come out and if your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel eats while you 
are away, she may need to eliminate prior to your 
return.
There are many brands of Cavalier King Charles Spaniel food available, and 
the most expensive brand is not necessarily the best. 
The bags or cans of food themselves will give you a 
guide on how much of that particular food you should 
feed your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel according to her weight.
You can adjust the recommended amount based on the 
amount of exercise your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel gets and the climate 
in which she lives. If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel spends the 
majority of her time in hot weather, she will not need 
the caloric intake of a cold weather Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
Also, you will find that your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel may have an 
allergy to corn based foods. It may develop sores and 
scabs on its skin from excessive scratching. Once the 
corn- based food is eliminated from its diet, the sores 
go away. This is one reason many vets recommend a lamb 
and rice formula for your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
Feeding Your Puppy - Puppies should be fed several 
regularly scheduled meals every day throughout the 
first three months of life. This will help prevent 
bloat. As your puppy gets older, you can reduce the 
feedings to two meals per day, morning and evening or 
offer free feeding as an alternative choice. Puppies 
require more calories and fat to grow.
Talk to your veterinarian about what type of food to 
feed your puppy through her first year of life. Many 
recommend specific brands and most recommend a food 
without a lot of additives.
Feeding Your Adult Cavalier King Charles Spaniel - A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is considered 
an adult from about one year to six years of age. 
This time period should have a balanced diet of quality 
food, offered according to the weight of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, 
and rich in the vitamins and minerals needed to promote 
a healthy life.
Once again, consult with your veterinarian on the brand 
they would recommend for your particular breed of 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. The vet should also have a medical history 
established by this time so they will also be able to 
add additional insight based on potential allergies or 
weight problems your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel may exhibit.
Feeding Your Older Cavalier King Charles Spaniel - Most older pets retain 
their ability to digest the essential nutrients from 
food well into old age.
However, some older dogs do require an adjustment in 
their food intake dependent on their amount of physical 
exercise. An older Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is usually not as active 
and therefore requires a reduction in calories.
Special food, designed for the older Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, is 
generally a good idea. Most of these formulas contain 
moderate levels of high quality, highly digestible 
protein as well as modified levels of polyunsaturated 
fat and vitamins B and E for better digestibility and 
health of your older pet.
Well, that's all the time that we have for today. We 
will send the next email to you tomorrow. Tomorrow,
we will discuss how to stop your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel from
barking and biting.
The tips discussed in this email should give you a good 
starting point to determine what to feed your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
However, there are lots of important diet related 
topics that have not been covered in this email.
Just to give you an example, we did not have the time 
to discuss exactly what quantities of different 
vitamins (Vitamins A, B, C, D, E, K etc.) and minerals 
should be given to a puppy, adult or older Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
This is present in our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site 
in the form of a chart outlining the different 
quantities of each vitamin and mineral that should be 
given to a puppy, adult or older Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
You won't find this exclusive chart anywhere else on 
the Internet - since we have ourselves developed this 
chart after years of extensive research on the best 
diet that should be given to your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
This chart is so important that we recommend that you 
hang it in your kitchen for easy reference.
In order to download this chart, you can subscribe to 
our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993


Training exercise 5

Today, we'll talk about how to stop your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel from 
barking and biting. Today's discussion will be rather 
short. For more information on how to correct these and 
other behavioral problems, you can subscribe to our 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
STOP BARKING
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is barking or howling when ignored, 
then it is most probably because it suffers from 
separation anxiety.
Separation anxiety usually initiates with fear and 
insecurities.
Training the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to do some tricks will help it 
gain self-esteem. You can learn about lots of different 
tricks that you can teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel in our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 
Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is yapping at the neighbors through 
the fence and annoying them, then behavior modification 
is the key. You can teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel a reverse 
command to stop the barking, or utilize anti-bark 
collars as a deterrent.
To teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel a reverse command, it must first 
know the command "SPEAK". The SPEAK command is used to 
teach the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to bark, but only when you tell it 
to (i.e. bark on demand). More information on how to 
teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel the SPEAK command can be found at 
our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
Once it has mastered the SPEAK command, think of 
another word to tell the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to stop barking . 
Whatever word you choose it should be one word and 
preferably one syllable if possible.
This process of first teaching your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to bark on 
demand may seem counter-intuitive when your objective 
is to make it stop barking unnecessarily, but we have 
found that it works brilliantly in reality.
Anti-bark collars come in two types - radio and herbal 
spray.
The radio collars deliver a mild shock when the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel starts to bark. The collar has prongs that 
must touch the front of the neck of your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel so 
the vibrations of the barking trigger the shock.
The herbal spray collars work the same way, only the 
vibrations trigger a mist of pungent citrus-scented fog 
into your pet's face. The mist startles the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 
and interrupts the barking.
STOP BITING
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has the habit of biting you or other 
members of your family, you can use some of the 
following techniques to stop it from doing so:
One good tool to utilize in teaching your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel not 
to bite is to not use toys and activities that 
encourage biting.
A perfect example of this is tug of war. Although a 
popular playtime activity for an owner and his/her 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, it encourages the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to bite leading to 
unwanted behavior problems.
Once your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is trained and fully understands the 
"Off" command, you may tug-of-war with your pet. Until 
then, it is best to put the rope away.
Another common mistake made by Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owners that 
encourages biting is rough housing. How many of us have 
either seen, or participated ourselves, in growling at 
our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and letting it grab our hands in its mouth 
during play. Then, when the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel bites too hard, we 
scold it and tell it "no bite". We are completely 
confusing our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel by doing this if it has not yet 
been trained to understand hard bites from soft bites.
If your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has a great propensity to bite when 
playing, it is a good idea to keep your hands away from 
its face when playing or petting. This will discourage 
the biting by removing the item it is trying to bite.
Never reward mouthing, snapping or grabbing types of 
behavior. An example would be playing with your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel even after it has grabbed a toy from your 
hand. In this instance, you should stop playing and 
ignore your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. Continuing to play will enable it 
to think the grabbing behavior was acceptable and it 
will continue in the future. This could result in it 
later grabbing food or other items, unintentionally 
injuring someone or another animal.
Once your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has established that mouthing or 
biting is not the appropriate response in most 
instances, it is important you teach it when it IS an 
appropriate response.
Retrieving would be an example of a time that it is 
appropriate for your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to mouth or bite. You can 
teach your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to retrieve on command. This 
enables you to offer something different for your 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to mouth when biting by distracting it with an 
appropriate toy to bite.
Another approach to stop the unwanted biting behavior 
is to simply stop interacting with the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and 
ignore it for a period of time.
Well, that's all the time that we have for today.
The tips discussed in this email should give you a good 
starting point to help you correct behavior problems 
like barking, biting etc.
However, there are lots of other important issues that 
we have not discussed which are essential for you to 
know before you can start training your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel not to 
bark or bite.
Also, apart from barking and biting, there are several 
other behavior problems like jumping on people, 
digging, short attention spans, excessive energy etc. 
that we have not discussed in this email.
For more information on stopping your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel from 
barking and biting and fixing some of the other 
behavior problems that you might encounter from time to 
time in your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, you can subscribe to our 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers Membership Site at:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993
In our membership site, you will also find hundreds of 
other highly advanced strategies and methods for 
training, taking care of and maintaining your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.
You won't be able to find these tips and techniques 
anywhere else on the Internet or in any book available 
at your local bookstore - because these are 
breakthrough techniques that our researchers at the 
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Training Institute have themselves discovered 
through years of extremely painstaking research.
When you become a member of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Lovers 
Membership Site, you will get access to these advanced 
training strategies and methods instantly, and you can 
start applying these techniques to your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel within 
the next 6 minutes.
Once you have finished implementing these techniques, 
your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will quickly turn into a healthy, happy, 
beautiful, obedient and well-trained pet that will make 
your family members think you are someone with super-
human capabilities and will literally make all the 
other dog owners in your locality jealous and envious 
of you!
Here's the link to our site again:
http://cavalierkingcharlesspaniel.dogtraininginstitute.com/index.php?p=m&e=6&i=249993

Dogs Arthritis

 This is a general information note and not related to these puppies.  It is relative to a book I have written relating to how I cured my own Arthritis and I added it to the e-book so as to assist pet owners successfully treat their little mates and relieve their pain and suffering so thought it may be helpful to someone. 
Dog Arthritis
Dog Arthritis in my best old mate helped me find the cure for Man’s Arthritis and mine in particular.

Specialists all told me that Medical science does not know what causes Arthritis and it was the inventor inside me that stuck to failure after failure to find the cause and remove it and it was all found in public domain information and an old Veterinarian’s book on Natural Pet Care that gave me the cause when she started off by saying
Arthritis: Arthritis is caused by an imbalance in the correct bone
building minerals –calcium, magnesium, copper, and boron (particularly the last of these) – as well as an unbalanced diet. This may not necessarily mean that the animal has not received the minerals but, that they cannot be properly absorbed if boron, copper and vitamins A & D are not present.

It was this breakthrough and the understanding that animal testing is often done before human testing so it was relevant to us and it was this information that changed the direction of where I was looking. I had been looking for a magic bullet that would cure the disease but that it was a dietary problem and by correcting this it gave me the answers of where to go from here and it brought an immediate success path. I first tested my ideas on my dear Ben a German Shepherd dog that was wracked by Arthritis and cried when he had to be moved.

Within a month Ben was running and chasing rabbits again and he chased, caught and ate a rabbit the night before he died after calling us to say goodbye. He was 14 years of age and had a quality life from 10 when he was healed to 14. The experiment with Ben was helpful as dogs have no placebo effect and they get the reactions quicker than we do.

After witnessing Ben’s miracle I was keen to get stuck into it myself and again saw the pain go quickly before the joints were being rebuilt with strong new cells totally naturally.

“Today I am filled with compassion when I see a faithful old mate for someone wracked with pain or having to be put down because of a bad heart, liver or pain. It is even more upsetting to see so many people limping with Arthritic Pain, having to sit down to get their breath and people in obvious trouble because I WAS THERE AND DO UNDERSTAND WHAT IT’S LIKE”.

When I was in trouble I learnt so much by reading the books of others who had found the cause of Arthritis, Cancer, Coronary Heart Disease, Alzheimer’s, MS, Diabetes and other degenerative diseases 2,500 years ago (Hippocrates) and seems to be lost to today’s sickness industry but known to the old natural healers and some scientific researchers who have difficulty being heard because it isn’t patentable nor are there any drugs just the foods that go on the end of our forks.

Don’t wait get this invaluable information right now start reading immediately, no postage, no waiting, instant download at
http://www.healedwithoutdrugs.com.au/bookshop.html



As part of a hobby we breed the most beautiful companion dogs called Cavoodles. They are a first Cross between two very carefully selected dogs with no line breeding in their genetics (Line breeding is the pedigree terminology of inbreeding where they put a say a father back across his daughter to emphasise certain show traits). The Sire and Dam are specially selected for temperament and health. These pups are especially bred, trained and fed to have the best healthy start in life a puppy can get and the feeding program all started from my research to get better myself and old Ben who is in Doggy Heaven right now. What we learnt in our experiments with Ben to cure his arthritis and bring him back to good health proved the basis for both him and me and the following is part of the instructions we give our folk who buy our pups. The feedback has been that this plan not only keeps them ion perfect health but when given to their other older dogs who have all manner of diseases they invariably (after getting them used to it) get better or have significant improvements.


Our feeding requirements are as follows
1 I do mix up a mineral supplement in direct accordance with the above Natural Pet Care advice and usually do it in decent size batches as it is easier to get the quantities of each ingredient constantly correct and it gives better quality control

2 It is essential that dogs get a decent amount of roughage so as to give their digestive tract a clean out and push the slow fibre free food like meats through.

3 As it is the animal protein that causes Arthritis and Cancer when fed in too great an amount however they naturally do eat animal protein but their wild instincts are to first eat the stomach (in grazing animals this gives them plant foods from the contents and that provides the roughage) and other offal organs. Their last choice is mussel meats and what do we feed them? All mussel meats.

4 The meats we choose is strong offal and it is put through the Kitchen wiz to make a strong gravy

5 Next we cook up a mix of various vegies that are available at the time and mix enough of the gravy to flavour the vegies and not exceed 5% and into this brew I add the mineral supplement and garlic powder as it also repels parasites.

6 To ensure they get sufficient roughage we allow our dogs direct access all day to Farrels 4X2 biscuits because they are made of 100% natural products, are high in roughage, are not fortified in any way, have no growth hormones or the likes and have been used by the greyhound racing kennels for a very long time because they give them good performance, also our dogs just love them. (4X2 is indicative of the old imperial measurements of 4 inches by 2 inches as the size of the biscuits) We find it easier for our little dogs to break them up with a hammer but larger dogs seem to handle them whole without problems. (Caution they are not a complete dog food)

The old Vets knew that 5% was the magic number for pets and 10% working dogs. Dogs in the wild would eat more than that but not much as they also ate a lot of acid berries and grasses for roughage. Recent scientific research has confirmed that 5% is the maximum safe limit for humans but what I found was that


A much more detailed recipe is included in the recipe book as this report has to be kept brief.

I have been asked why would I want to give away all this Valuable Information ABSOLUTELY FREE? It is a deliberate desire to add value to the Books on Healed Without Drugs, go into more details of certain important aspects than I could in the book because of room, giving readers a place to discuss questions Why and How we do things, so giving them a reason to keep on doing them to make sure they reach their goal of Total Wellness and beat their disease. It also gives us all the opportunity to be part of a small community of people who master their disease and to reach back to help others coming through and encourage them step by step and have the resource of being able to chat to others who have been there and know exactly where you are at. Unless you’ve actually been there you really don’t know where someone is at and what they are feeling, fears grief and emotions.

The Ten Commandments of Dog Ownership

The Ten Commandments of Dog Ownership


My life is likely to last 10 to 15 years.  Any separation from you will be painful for me.  Remember that before you buy me.

Give me time to understand what you want of me.

Place your trust in me - it's crucial to my well being.

Don't be angry with me for long, and don't lock me up as punishment.  You have your work, your entertainment and your friends.  I only have you.

Talk to me sometimes.  Even if I don't understand your words, I do understand your voice when it's speaking to me.

Be aware that however you treat me I'll never forget it.

Remember before you think of hitting me that I have teeth that could easily crush your hand, but that I choose not to bite you.

Before you scold me for being uncooperative, obstinate, naughty or lazy ask yourself if something might be bothering me.  Perhaps I'm not getting the right food or I've been out in the sun for too long.

Take care of me and love me when I grow old, you too will grow old.

Go with me on difficult journeys.  Never say I can't bear to watch it or let it happen in my absence.  Everything is easier for me if you are there.

Remember I Love You!

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Just A Few Testimonials

Puppy Testimonials from New Owners

Firstly please let me say that every message copied here I have the permission of the senders to use it for this purpose.

From Colleen Wed, Jul 23, 2008

Dear Brian and Julia,

Thought I should give you a brief update. Ella went for her first visit to the vet yesterday for her booster and worming. She is now 2.7kgs which is a whole kilo heavier then when we brought her home. It is unbelievable how much she has grown and how confident and playful she is now. Attached are a couple of photos.

Everywhere I take her she gets abducted with people just wanting to cuddle her and let me tell you she really laps it up. The vet and the vet nurses wanted me to leave her with them permanently. The same thing happened when I popped into the local chemist with her last week. She is a real charmer.

During the school holidays we had 3 girls sleep over and I think for the 2 days and one night Ella didn’t put her little feet to the floor – she was carried everywhere as each waited for their next turn.

She has already figured how to escape from the pen that I made her and last night arrived in my bedroom (and then my bed) at 2.15pm. Every night she hops into bed with Olivia for story time which she loves.

We went for our first walk today and she seemed to manage in the harness and lead but she has crashed tonight as a result. She has started nipping and doing other puppy things so we are off the puppy pre-school for 5 weeks starting Sunday. Overall we are overjoyed. Hope all is well with you and Honey and Gabby.

I’ll send some photos separately. Bye for now.

Colleen, Olivia and Ella



Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 1:31 PM
subject Lui and Lola

Dear Julia and Brian,
I would like to thank you guys again for our beautiful puppies. We are just delighted with them and I have to say it was an excellent decision to buy two of them. it was a wonderful and exciting time going through the process of birth and growth till we could take possession of little Lui and Lola and we thank you for all the progress updated and pictures along the way. They love each others company, want to sleep on top of each other, wrestling and playing together all day. They don't actually like to lose sight of each other. I think Lola is going to be the boss and Louie the brawn. I actually think our cavoodles are the cutest I have seen. We nickname them our little Ewokes.
Regards,
Dominic and Marion


Mon, Jun 30, 2008 at 2:47 PM
Subject: Buster !
We have named our little guy Buster, which finally we all agreed on at the end of our long day picking him up from Clarence town.
He was the perfect puppy on the way home, actually the kids were too, and after a short break at your local markets, where I managed to find a wheat pack, everyone fell fast asleep until we got home. Phew!

Buster has settled in perfectly, although we are spoiling him rotten. He cries a bit when we get carried away doing our own thing, and he just loves being held and cuddled. We give him as much attention as we possibly can, but in the interest of getting things done, he is learning to play on his own a little. He’s come out of his shell today and really been playing/chewing and rolling around the place. The kids are just loving him and Madi has already taken the role of his mum, and runs to his aide whenever he whines, and lets him sit in her lap. She’s been brushing his hair and talking to him most of the day, so he is not without company.

At night we’ve been too soft, but know he’s got a lot to adjust to. For now he’s sleeping in bed with us !!!! Which is just divine, cos he’s such a cuddly little monkey. But in the next few days, we’ll put him back into his bed and show him the way forward. He’s not scared of anything or anyone, and even tried to ride on the vacuum cleaner today – he’s tail wagging like crazy.

He’s not eating very much which is a little concerning, but when I sit down and hand feed him he takes a little. I think he’s still adjusting. We’ve got our vet visit this afternoon so I’m sure she will tell us if he needs anything to get his appetite up, or if its just a big changes and he’ll settle down. We’ve been making up his food as per your recipe using the 4 x 2 biccies Julia gave me, but still no huge portions being scoffed – maybe 1/4 cup of food a day.

Hope all the owners were very happy with their newest additions that were picked up on Saturday. Did you find a home for the little girl?

And another thanks for taking the time with us to show us how to shampoo etc – I’ve bought eucalyptus & tea tree, and have marked in the calendar another wash date in a month.

But biggest of thank yous to you both for our beautiful little fella. Buster is just so perfect in every way, we are so so so happy.
I’ll keep you posted and send you pics as I download them off the camera.

Much love and best wishes
em, al, madi, jasper & buster



Fri, Jun 27, 2008 at 1:04 PM
subject Charlie

Hi Brian & Julia have managed to escape from my new little one to let you know we got home ok yesterday. Charlie was an angel and slept pretty much all the way!!! He is so beautiful and has just fitted in so well ..........the kids really didn’t want to go off to school this morning but with holidays coming up they will only have one week more and then can spend a couple of weeks with him which is great timing. He has spent the morning in the sun which he just loved. Even getting a ride in the back of Grace’s bike he is really very playful and we have had many laughs at his little gallops and confidence that he has displayed after a while. He is currently asleep in the study with my husband laid across his feet as he works. Will try to send some photos on the weekend hopefully the weather will stay nice.

Thankyou again for making all this possible!

Kind Regards


Julie


For further information please free to phone us on 02 4996 5646 (This is an Australian number and if phoning from overseas our country code is 61 then area code 2 and phone number 4996 5646)

or email us on: companiondogs1@gmail.com

Our sole motive in putting this blog together is to help people find a pet that best suits them and that will become an interictal member of their family. If the right pet is selected and brought up with the right inputs from the new owners it will reward you with years of joy, love and devotion to you.

It is our desire to add value to all pet owners and particularly dogs as much of what is written isn’t just applicable to one breed but most breeds that are to be companion dogs and not special purpose animals example, working dogs or guard dogs.

Cavoodle Grown Photos From Past Litters

The following photos are from past liters to show what puppies look like as they grow and the variation of colours
Meet our little Nellie, she just loves Ari's company and to help him in the garden
And when Dad's digging what a chance to help him AH?
And what little helper wouldn't like a ride in the wheelbarrow.
Then when works all done and s girls about pooped to cuddle up in a warm rug and have a snooz.
Oh playing is so tiring and the whelping box is so good to come back to
The reason we concentrate on how the puppies go to their new homes is because they really do bond with their siblings and sleep so close to each other it is their security.  Our Girls even sleep touching each other today and once they leave they can fret if no preparation is made.
Even when the last one is left they still sleep on the pile just as before, here is little Alice asleep on top of her Mum and Aunty.  I don't know if it is the warmpth or the physical connection to one another.
Here is a litter I am teaching to lap solids.  This group have a sloppy mix of Farax, the exact same stuff we give our kids, mixed with a special lactose free puppy formula to help make the transition from mum to the big world.  Once puppies are weaned they should never be fed cows milk if any fresh un-pasteurised goats milk but really they shouldn't be fed milk at all.  So they don't climb into the bowl and wade through it and make a real mess they eat it out of the anti ant moat around the outside and I just keep topping it up till their little tummies are full.  You can see by the spillage on the paper around the bowl that they make a mess anyhow.
A few days later they have taken to Farax like ducks to water and they know what it is so they don't jump into it.
Meet Koopa.  I am waiting for photos of her coming as she was recently her owners Flower Girl and I am led to believe that she was stunning.
I have deliberately included the set of photos as they show how background colours can wash off giving the animal totally different looks purely because of the lighting.  They were all taken on the same day when one couple wanted to show us how she was growing and we wanted to see her and them.  Firstly Koopa has been clipped and the above shot is closest to natural as it was taken in dappled shade.
In this shot Koopa is in a slightly overcast direct light and is also close to natural but there has been some areas burnt out.
This shot has the most effect of the wall colour washing onto the coat making it look a lot more ruby than it is.
Here She is standing by the extra light coming in the door and less influence of the wall than  the side that is in the shade and the neck that can be compared to the first shot.  What is this saying?
Firstly that it is trying to save disappointment of a pup looking a different colour to what you thought you were buying it is really good for the breeder to show a number of shots on different days and there is a need for you to check which are the natural looking colours as they will all have some that don't look quite like  they really are and that's why we used to send out weekly report emails and now have started this blog so like before each week we will be posting new blogs with photos so you can see your puppy in different lights and on different days with changing light intensities.  Up til now they all looked so much the same and from here on they will start developing their own distinct personalities and become much more individual and this more or less is the same for most breeds, a very good reason to fall in love with their personality instead of looks, that way you will never be disappointed and if their looks remain the same that's a bonus.
Meet Rusty another puppy that came back for a visit and whilst this was taken with a phone camera so it isn't as sharp but this shot was inside whilst the next was outside which is probably closer to the natural colour
He's trying to be difficult when his mum is trying to introduce him to Farrells 4X2 biscuits (see Pat Coleby's comments of these as they are a terrific dog food if used as she instructs, helping to balance their diet

I sincerely hope these photos and notes help you make better choices particularly when based on photos it can take much of the guesswork out of the decision particularly if you get a string of photos week by week so you can track their progress as they grow and change ultimately so what you see is what you get and there are no surprises.

For further information please free to phone us on 02 4996 5646 (This is an Australian number and if phoning from overseas our country code is 61 then area code 2 and phone number 4996 5646)

or email us on: companiondogs1@gmail.com

Our sole motive in putting this blog together is to help people find a pet that best suits them and that will become an interictal member of their family. If the right pet is selected and brought up with the right inputs from the new owners it will reward you with years of joy, love and devotion to you.

It is our desire to add value to all pet owners and particularly dogs as much of what is written isn’t just applicable to one breed but most breeds that are to be companion dogs and not special purpose animals example, working dogs or guard dogs.