I would strongly recommend just 1 book to buy and persevere till you find it, as it may take a bit if searching. The book is called “Natural Pet Care” by Pat Coleby ISBN 0 7344 0488 3 published by Lothian Books
I encourage you to get it because it is a source of information that has helped me overcome OA as well. I have reproduced a report of hers from a country magazine and hope that will encourage you to get the book and benefit from all the 80 odd years of Pat’s experience and the wisdom it contains.
Our sole objective is to give you the information to help you enjoy your pet for a long healthy and fruitful lifetime and if you choose to use the information it could help your health like it has mine also.
Be careful with the onion family and be very sparing with it
Also Garlic is great for preventing flees and biting insects as is sulpha but these are only to be used in very small doses and be especially careful with young pups. Any food with sugar makes animals more attractive to biting insects than those without (this includes the diseases they carry) and we have proved this with our cows.
ESPECIALLY BE CAREFUL WITH THE AMOUNT OF ANIMAL PROTEIN NO MORE THAN 5% FOR PETS AND 10% FOR WORKING DOGS AND DEFINITELY NO COWS MILK (following this and eating only fresh raw vegetables has helped me avoid a wheel chair and avoid a certain death in 1993 when I was given 6 months on 6/6/93 so I am sold on the health benefits of this nutrition)
If you just must give your pup or dog milk the vet will have a powdered form that has no lactose and is suitable for pups or else goats milk is ok according to Pat Coleby.
Worming:
Note. We have used Popantel Allwormer Tabs for pups. They were wormed at 2, 4 and 8 weeks, you won’t need to do it again til week 12 then every month til 6 months, then every three months for adult dogs and follow the instructions of your vet for young puppies. By rights ours shouldn’t have worms or fleas because of the mineral balance we keep them with but as they are going away to other people we play safe so you don’t have a worry.
Heart Worms: This is a shockingly painful thing for dogs to get and you should ask your vet for the heart wormer they recommend. This is a separate treatment, normal worming does not cover and they make a chewable tab the dogs love and will bully for so it is easy to administer. (A free sample is in your puppy pack)
Fleas:
There is two options: Frontline is effective and again this is obtained from the Vet or Produce store and a good practice could be to do it on the 1st of every month next day after a wash.
Note: If you would prefer a natural option as we prefer to follow Pat Coleby’s advice you should be able to dispense with this expense as the copper, garlic and sulphur should keep normal worms and fleas at bay (not heart worms), but it is good insurance in tick country and researched from old drovers who had to fix their animals on the trail from what they have on hand. We use the recommended treatments as well because we are selling dogs and want to prevent anyone getting a bag of fleas or worms and there are numbers of dogs in close proximity however living on a property our nearest neighbours dog is almost a Kilometre away and they rarely come in contact with other outside animals. This is a matter for you to consider and come to your own conclusion about and I’m not telling you what you have to do but recommending you do your own homework. My only recommendation is that you keep them under control and never let them get established.
Disinfectants: There are many good brands we personally use Aldi Hospital strength and do it daily mixed 250 ml to 1Ltr water in a spray bottle and every week I do what I read they do in hospitals when there are tough bugs to control. That is to use White Vinegar and water in a squirter bottle and spray everything
Eucalyptus: We use Double D and I put a few drops into a small bottle, mix some Metho well and then some liquid detergent to emulsify it. Mix some of this in a spray bottle fill with water and it leaves a nice smell around the kennels and back steps.
There are plenty of ready mixed formulas available from the supermarket but this is what we use and this works out effective for us and economical but you can try if you wish and sort out what suits you best.
Taking your new puppy home:
Please remember this may be exciting for you but your new little mate is having a rough time missing mum and even more the other siblings so it will be as lonely as all heck. Some take their little mate into their own bedroom for a night or two with a hot wheat bag wrapped in a towel to replace the body heat from their siblings. Up to date they all group together in a huddle and keep each other warm and hear each others heart beat so an old loud Chinese ticking clock is a good idea. Maybe a deep box with sides and a cut out to climb in and out with a pillow or rug for padding and warmth.
With these puppies they are bread for companion dogs and the future relationship and bonding will depend on how much time and love you give it in these new days. Bonding is as important as it is with a new baby and in fact we found that Julia’s mothering skills were invaluable in bonding and potty training our pups.
I have read all sorts of training methods some with aids but what we found best was that she would simply watch them and before they should be about ready for a pee she would put the lead on them and take them out on the grass and say wee, wee and they soon learnt that that was associated with emptying the bladder and when we take them for a walk they now stop for wee, wees as soon as we hit the grass. Likewise after they have had a feed take them out and say poo, poo and they usually do poos for us again on the grass and because they eat natural tucka their poos disintegrate quickly with the worms quickly devouring them and we have no smelly messes to clean up and no or few land mines on the lawn to clean up and if one does take more than a few days to dissolve into the grass just turn a high pressure hose in it and it soon washes into the ground again for fertilizer.
By doing this for a while (and ours are inside dogs) they soon got the message that when the urge came they go to the door and sometimes bark if we (usually I) don’t realise what they are telling us but Julia seems to understand the different ways they look intently at her (better than me) and as soon as we get their lead they really get excited. We live on a farm with no fences around the home block only electric to keep cattle out and we have foxes quals and other predators hence the reason we always use the lead at night not so necessary in the day. But they do get used to it quite quickly and it is a lot better than making another job to have to clean up or widdle boxes to keep litter in or clean up after them and is another companion or bonding time to enjoy their antics.
What to buy: Here again this is just a few suggestions and many will wish to buy more and many less it is rather an individual thing.
Food: You can chose what best suits you but we have fed them the following. 1 part Advance Rehydratable puppy food, 1 part “Box 1 4X2 biscuits” crushed and our supplement (see under own heading) This goes into the vitamiser and ground to a fine powder and stored as such. When mixing I get out of the Frig a pre cooked vegetable puree also done in the vitamiser together with Apple cider vinegar, cod Liver Oil and chlorophyll butter and a small amount of cheese for flavour. When about to feed them mix equal parts of dry powder and vegetable puree using their cooking water to moisten and thin the mix. They should have to eat out of the bowl and if not hand feed with a small teaspoon for a while. I find that if I talk to them and tell them how lovely they are the tone of voice needed to tell them this is very reassuring and settling to them so they are much more relaxed and take their food better. It’s a lot like children when we are up tight, angry, nervous or had a scrap with someone they read us and act similarly playing up so follow your instincts what you would do if it was a baby and most importantly show it love and you will be rewarded.
Stuff: There is a multitude of stuff you can buy but don’t rush in to too much, grow into what you need over time. Items I feel are essential\ include a sleeping mat that can double as a car seat protector, a toy size harness and lead. A collar is handy for quick short trips outside. Several food bowls particularly if they will be left for a while. A stainless water bowl (and a short piece of copper water pipe to leave in the bowl to leach trace amounts of copper as most foods are lacking in enough copper) one for soft food and one for 4X2 crushed and one for rehydratable puppy biscuits. And that’s about it for essentials.
You may want to also get some shampoo but get special sones for puppies and a quality brand as their new skin is sensitive, also grooming tools.
Finally: The next and most important aspect is to enjoy your new friend he/she can give you years of pleasure and unswerving love if treated right. Give them 100% love and they will give you 200% back that’s their nature.
King Charles was a pioneer of designer dog breeding and his little Spaniels (Cavalier King Charles Spaniels) were purpose bread between a number of breeds to create special companions for the Aristocratic set and only Aristocrats were able to buy one. They were real status symbols and as the breed continues to become known world wide as possibly the best human companion dog in the world and has one of the lowest dumpage rates. In Australia it also has the fourth largest number of litter registrations in the Canine Council in Australia and similarly as popular in the USA.
The Poodle on the other hand is credited as a French dog although they are traced back to early Egyptian times and were originally hunting dogs and of course became excellent Gun Dogs.
Poodles have been popular all through Europe for several hundred years. They also are skilled at most other dog events including herding, agility, obedience and tracking very intelligent dogs.
They are elegant in the show ring, having taken top honors in many shows. The poodle coat is dense and generally does not shed. They have a natural affinity to people and by selective breeding their love and devotion to people has emerged. Each contribute a wealth of benefits to the Cavoodle bread (Cavalier Poodle cross) particularly the hybrid vigour and increases the gene pool of each bread 100% and that is beneficial for the health and stamina of the Cavoodle particularly as breeding within a smaller gene pool can over time particularly with those breeders that practice line breeding causing certain genes to mutate causing some less desirable traits (the same as humans inbreeding for generations) and we hear these breeders proudly declaring that these pups get destroyed. We believe this totally unacceptable and largely preventable by maintaining a larger gene pool by out sourcing different selective sires with proven health records and not allowing any mating within family lines.
Probably the most disastrous thing we can do to our little mates is to go off to work and leave them alone all day. That day after day can break their hearts and if they have to be left for long periods we strongly recommend another mate as two help keep each other company and does not alter our human relationship with them in fact it is better and we have 2 mates not just 1 so it is a win, win result. Ours love the car and love to come “tatars” in the car. Say that word and there is a great flurry to ensure they are not missed. Again ours create no problem for long car trips so long as we have a few more comfort stops for them as well as us and they can be planned to be the same stops. Go into the shop to get something for a minute and come back to a welcome as if you had been away for a month, they become just so devoted and crave affection and are as great with babies and children with not a mean or jealous bone in their bodies but they do reflect the owners treatment of them.
So we have done the best we can do to ensure a great healthy young pup capable of long happy healthy lives the rest now is up to you and it is both of our desires that you enjoy your new friend as much as we enjoy ours as they are undoubtedly great company and have the ability to creep under our guard and right into our hearts, all they ask is love, feed and companionship.
Food preparation:
You can experiment to find what suits you but here is mine for you to start from.
In order to prepare the pups taste buds for alternatives new owners may select I have adapted a combination of Bourkes Backyard Vet Rob Zamit’s recommendation replacing cooked brown rice (as it seems to go through my pups whole) with Pat Coleby’s favourite source of fibre and carbohydrate (Box 1 4X2 biscuits chopped up into smaller pieces).
It is 1 part of Rehydratable Advanced puppy (when 6 months you can switch to the adult version)
1 part Box 1 4X4
Put in the blender and ground fine to a powder
To this add 2 parts of vegetables cooked and blended smooth or better raw if the pup will handle it
Add small amount of minerals plus Cider Vinegar, chlorophyll, a few drops of cod liver oil (2 X weekly) and a few drops of baby pentavite and about a quarter teaspoon of honey.
I make up enough to do a day and only put out smaller amounts in the pups plate with the rest in the frig.
To make sure we get a full nights sleep I like to hand feed them about 6 PM with a small teaspoon until it’s little tummy feels full and then finish up with a special fine beef mince with about 15% fat to finish up just enough to give them up to 20% animal protein as a pup and down to 5% as an adult.
The mineral mix is from Pat Coleby’s list and consists of 1 part each domamite, garlic powder,
3 parts seaweed (it has most of the minerals artificial fertilizers have leached out of our soils) including most important copper, selenium, phosphorus, iodine, cobalt and magnesium)
Plus ½ part of sulpher (Sulpher and garlic make the animal unattractive to biting insects like fleas etc) In case of a flee outbreak or bad tick area they should still be treated with something like frontline but the above is fine for normal low risk areas.
Add ¼ part of sodium ascorbate (Vitamin C) (I believe from reading that this form is better than ascorbic acid and in case of snake bite or other deadly bites it is a great boost. Coleby recommends injectable sodium ascorbate as a snake bite treatment that is good for all snake bites and is what we trust on the farm where brown snakes are prevalent.)
plus the following trace elements (trace elements are exactly that very small traces and too much can be toxic so I use a pinch of these to a tablespoon of the others) Boron and Cobalt
In addition to this a stainless drinking bowl is vital and I have a small 75-100mm length of copper pipe and a teaspoon of Apple cider vinegar in the water to raise the potassium and acidity to leach the copper into the water (making the pipe bright) This is creates a trace amount colloidal copper which helps prevent internal parasites like worms and also cancer and arthritis mainly occurs when the mineral balances are low and particularly copper and a major factor for the occurrence of these diseases in human and animals today. (copper pipe is ideal and if the hardware store won’t cut you a small length every plumber would have that sort of scrap lying around as would many handy men)
These elements can be obtained from a good health food store or if it becomes too hard I usually mix up a larger amount at a time and could supply you 3-4 months supply for about $25 but have enclosed the formula in case you do want to be independent.
Of all the above sea weed or kelp is one that can’t be overdosed on and is taken as a food so is the best way to absorb. The minerals it contains are readily available and I am of the conviction that a sea weed tablet a day is one of the best and cheapest multi vitamin pills I can take. So if you want to be heavy handed and put extra in the dogs meal it’s ok.
I find that sometimes the dogs don’t want to eat the mixed up food but a light gravy made with small amounts of liver or meat will give it the meaty taste they like. At this point our vet was most adamant that he wouldn’t give his daughters chicken because of what it does to their bodies.
For further information please free to phone us on 02 4996 5646 (This is an Australian number and if phoning from overseas our country code is 61 then area code 2 and phone number 4996 5646)
or email us on: companiondogs1@gmail.com
Our sole motive in putting this blog together is to help people find a pet that best suits them and that will become an interictal member of their family. If the right pet is selected and brought up with the right inputs from the new owners it will reward you with years of joy, love and devotion to you.
It is our desire to add value to all pet owners and particularly dogs as much of what is written isn’t just applicable to one breed but most breeds that are to be companion dogs and not special purpose animals example, working dogs or guard dogs.
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